Balsa Skate

A Wooden Pumping Dream

Posted by Christian on March 21, 2022 Category: Boards

After seeing a friend's Balsa surfboard I was immediately hooked and had to build my own for pumping. The first sketch outlined a small and flat (no rocker) pumping board that I could easily transport with public transport or put in a travel bag without loosing too much space..

This was the first pencil sketch of the board (Sperrholz = plywood, Styro = 30 kg/m3 EPS foam): Balsa surfboard sketch on paper Cross-section of the balsa surfboard

To aid in building I decided to digitize it and make a PDF out of it that could be printed. PDF surfboard sketch

The PDF of the sketch can be downloaded here if printed on a 55x110cm paper the scale is 1:1.

After ordering a bunch of wood from balsa.ch and the fin-boxes from Alibaba Express I started to make the stringers for the board. Those consisted of a 10x30 mm balsa bar with a 3 mm layer of plywood on each side. The stringers are meant to be the main mean of load distribution between the foil and the rider. Gluing of the plywood balsa stringers Finished plywood balsa stringer Each stringer consists of a balsa core with two 3 mm pieces of plywood on each side.

The foil boxes were mounted in between the stringers supported by another 5mm plywood plate from above Stringers with two ten inch fin boxes from Alibaba Express.

The fin boxes had a lot of excess material that didn't really aid strength. So I did some milling to make them slimmer. This saved a total of 20g per foil box and resulted in a much nicer fit between the stringers with less voids. Milling of the foil boxes to reduce weight.

The fin boxes were glued into the rails with a mixture of epoxy and microballons the proper distance between the boxes was determined with an Axis 19mm Aluminum Foil Mast Base. Gluing foil boxes into the stringers Axis 19mm Aluminum Foil Mast Base to determine width of homemade board-rails.

After terminating the end of the stringers with blocks of balsa wood the stringers were filled with 15 kg/m3 EPS foam and closed from both sides with balsa bars. Stringer with balsa end pieces. Stringer filled with EPS foam ready to be closed

The finished stringers looked like this Bottom 0

Next the decks were prepared by gluing the small balsa bars together Gluing of the balsa bars to form the deck of the surfboard Finished tiling for the deck of the surfboard

After the plates for the deck were finished they were glued to the stringers and trimmed according to the outline in the PDF plus maybe 5mm. Stringers and deck glued together Stringers and deck glued together and trimmed to shape Stringers and deck start looking like a surfboard (inside board) Stringers and deck start looking like a surfboard (outside board) Stringers and deck start looking like a surfboard (2nd outside board pic)

To vent all hollow (EPS filled) chambers with the other chambers of the board I drilled two through-holes with a diameter of 6mm. Drill for drilling surfboard venting holes Drilling of surfboard venting holes Finished venting holes

Next the rails were formed from balsa clippings and lots of glue. Forming the boards rails with balsa clippings

The so formed void was filled with EPS foam. One of the biggest screw-ups of this build was that I didn't glue the EPS to the balsa on the deck and the bottom. Only a little sun/temperature was enough to inflate the board like a balloon :/ I later drilled some holes in the deck (below the pad) and injected a mixture of microballons and epoxy which fixed this issue. Board with rails and EPS foam filling

Again with the help of the PDF printout the board was sanded to size and shape. I learnt that balsa dust is extremely aggressive stuff and it's best to wear a mask when sanding it.. Sanding the board into size and shape

For sanding the rails I used half a pipe with sanding paper glued into it, that allowed to sand the radius quite decently as shown in these pictures Board with nice radius all the way around the rails Board rail closeup 1 Board rail closeup 2

To improve the adhesion of the glass to the balsa several people online as well as offline recommend to add a thin layer of epoxy that is completely cured before doing the actual lamination Thin epoxy coat for balsa foil pumping board before lamination top Thin epoxy coat for balsa foil pumping board before lamination bottom

Another step before laminating the board was to add a vent plug. Because most of the vent plugs that are sold are extremely ugly and unnecessary large I made my own by drilling a counterbored hole into a piece of epoxy strengthened with carbon chips that was made from waste epoxy in a small plastic pipe. Vent plug installation in balsa skate pumping board

I got the seal ring from a friend but they can be found in most hardware stores. Vent plug after lamination of the board

The board was laminated with Sicomin Surfclear EVO epoxy and two 150 g/m2 fiberglass fabrics on each side. Special care was taken that the mats of each side overlap over the rails for extra impact resistance and stiffness.

Laminating the board using two fiberglass fabrics, Sicomin Surfclear EVO and peel ply Laminating the board using two fiberglass fabrics, Sicomin Surfclear EVO and peel ply (second shot)

I used fine peel ply that was applied right onto the wet epoxy so that I could remove any air bubbles that had formed on the surface before the epoxy cured completely. This trick saved me from a lot of sanding because the surface came out quite decent Removing the peel ply from the balsa surfboard Nice surface quality after removing the peel ply

The rails for mounting the foil had EPS stuffed into them which did a good job in avoiding that epoxy would run into them. For cutting them free mainly a standard retractable knife was used. It required some endurance but the result was good. In the beginning I tried to use a small saw blade attached to a drill but that didn't work well (needs more rpm). Curring of the fiberglass mat to set the rails of the board free ;)

Unfortunately I didn't make any pictures of the (hot)coating of the board with an additional thin layer of Sicomin Surfclear EVO epoxy on the bottom/rails of the board but this happened ;)

The last step of the build was to cut the deck pad. The gluing part was quite tricky to be honest but with 4 hands it was doable. Cutting of the deck pad

The resulting board had a total weight of 2300g including the deck pad at a volume of 11.4 liters. I have been using it for over a year now and it works quite well. If I was to do another one I would however add some rocker. The issues of not having a rocker are a (perceived) worse pumping efficiency as well as an endlessly floating board when you push it too deep under water. Especially latter is a real pain because sometimes when you drown the board 1 meter or more it will emerge only seconds later far away from you.

Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board Bottom Sideways Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board Bottom Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board Top Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board Rails 1 Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board Rails 2 Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board with Axis 1300 Foil in grass Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board rails in grass Finished Balsa Skate Foil Board in grass



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